Water Heater Repair Basics

Water Heater Repair

If you’re experiencing problems with your water heater, you can usually take a few steps to keep the problem from worsening until your plumber arrives. Start by checking your breaker box to see if the breaker is tripped or blown.Water Heater Repair

If it is, flip it back on. If not, call the experts at Denver Water Heater Repair.

Thermostats play an important role in water heater safety. Their function is to shut off the power to your water heater elements if the temperature inside the tank rises to dangerous levels. If your thermostat is faulty, you may experience high-temperature shutdowns. Thermostats can be defective for various reasons, including mineral buildup, clogged vents, and wiring problems. It’s a good idea to resolve these issues as soon as possible to avoid serious problems in the future.

To test the functionality of your thermostat, try lowering its setting. If you do so and notice that your hot water is still too hot, your thermostat might be faulty. If the lower setting still causes your water to heat too quickly, it’s likely time to replace it.

Fortunately, replacing a thermostat is a relatively easy DIY task. After turning off the power to your heater, you can disconnect the wires from the upper and lower thermostats. You can then unscrew the old thermostat from the tank and screw the new one in place with your hands or pliers. To ensure that the new thermostat fits correctly, you can also find a model that’s designed to fit your water heater on websites like Amazon.

If your thermostat is faulty, you can perform several troubleshooting tests to see if it’s actually broken or just not working properly. You can also try bridging two of the terminals together to test their functionality. If your water heater stops cycling when you bridge the terminals, it’s probably a good idea to replace it.

A faulty thermostat is the most common cause of high-temperature shutdowns. However, there are some other problems that can lead to these issues, such as a clogged vent, a damaged heating element, or a rusty water tank. Regular maintenance and cleaning can help prevent these problems from developing. Cleaning the air vent regularly is a good way to prevent mineral buildup, and it’s important to check and replace the sacrificial anode rod every three to five years. You can purchase a new sacrificial anode rod at most hardware stores, home centers, or plumber’s wholesalers.

Damaged Heating Element

If your water heater isn’t producing hot water, the heating element may have burned out. If it’s a gas water heater, the pilot light may also be out. However, this is less likely to be the case since relighting a pilot light takes much more work than replacing a damaged heating element. If you do find that the pilot light is out, it’s important to follow the safety manual carefully and not try to relight it without doing so. This is dangerous and can lead to a fire or explosion. The pilot light is important to keep the gas control valve open, allowing the gas to flow and heat the water. The temperature sensor also needs to be working properly, as does the thermocouple if your tank is gas.

If you have an electric water heater, the first thing to check is that the circuit breaker that corresponds to the water heater has not tripped. Then, press the reset button on the high-temperature cutoff switch located just above the upper thermostat to see if that solves the problem.

The next step is to test the functionality of the heating elements. You can do this by using a multimeter set to the lowest ohms setting. Touch the red probe of the multimeter to one of the screw terminals on the element, and the black probe to the other screw terminal. If the reading is below 30 ohms, the element is faulty and should be replaced. Repeat this process on the bottom heating element if your water heater has two.

You can replace the element yourself if you’re comfortable handling electrical and plumbing work. However, if you aren’t comfortable doing this, or are unsure about your abilities, it is best to have the element replaced by a professional. When purchasing the new element, it should match the length, mounting type (screw-in or flange), and wattage of the old one to ensure a perfect fit.

Once you’ve removed the old element and replaced it, start up the water heater to see if you have hot water. If not, you may need to replace the thermostats or the water heater cutoff switch.

Rusty Tank

A rusty tank is not just unsightly, it’s a sign that your water heater may be about to fail. Even if your tank isn’t leaking, a rusty one exposes the metal to oxygen from the air and this is what causes corrosion and leaks. A quality water heater usually lasts for about 10 years. If yours is close to this age it is a good idea to research replacing it to avoid not having hot water or a flood caused by a failing water heater.

A few rust flakes on the tank’s surface are normal, but if you see a lot of rust or a rusty tank cap, it means that the water inside is corrosive. This is usually a sign that the anode rod is going bad and needs to be replaced.

The anode rod is a piece of metal that goes through the center of your water heater tank. It is designed to attract corrosive elements from the water that would otherwise attack and erode your water heater tank. The anode rod can go bad from normal use, or it can be accelerated by hard water with excessive mineral content.

If you find that your water has a red or brownish tint to it or that you notice a metallic scent when it’s running, this is a sign that there is rust in the tank and/or pipes. Fortunately, this can often be remedied by shocking the system with a chlorine treatment or flushing the system.

To start, shut off the water to your home and drain the water heater. Then open the tank hatch and take a look inside. If there is a lot of rust or flaking you will need to scrub the inside of the tank with a stiff brush and scouring pad. Then rinse the inside of the tank with water, dry it and seal the openings to the tank with GOOD duct tape. Next, pour in a pint of naval jelly or any other phosphoric acid formulation such as milk stone remover or tile haze remover. This will coat the inside of your tank with iron phosphate which is somewhat rust resistant.

Damaged Pressure Valve

The pressure relief valve, or TPR valve, is one of the most important safety components on a water heater. It’s designed to open if the pressure inside of your tank gets too high, protecting your home and your family from a possible explosion. However, this valve can be damaged for a number of reasons, including age, poor installation, and excessive wear. If your TPR valve is damaged, you should replace it as soon as possible to prevent a leaky water heater.

When the valve is working correctly, it will release a little bit of water whenever the temperature or pressure in the tank gets too high. This water will escape through the valve and out of the pipe at the top of the tank, lowering the temperature and pressure back to safe levels. But, if the valve becomes defective or damaged, it can’t release excess pressure and the buildup could cause the tank to explode.

A faulty or damaged pressure valve can also result in a lot of water getting into your home, damaging the piping and water heater itself. This is why it’s important to regularly check your water heater for any signs that the pressure relief valve isn’t functioning properly.

If you hear rattling sounds coming from your water heater, this is a clear sign that the pressure in your tank has gotten too high and that the valve isn’t opening correctly. Excessive debris in the water is another sign that your valve needs to be replaced.

Replacing your pressure valve is a simple process, but it should only be done by a professional plumber. To start, turn off the gas to your water heater or flip the breaker if it’s electric. Next, close the cold water cut-off valve that runs to your heater and drain any water that’s in the overflow pipe by opening a tap or drain valve that’s lower than the location of the valve. Then, use a wrench to unscrew the old valve. Measure the distance from the bottom of the tank to the overflow pipe and cut a new length of 3/4-inch CPVC pipe to that measurement, making sure it matches the diameter of the valve’s exhaust port. Screw the new valve into place, wrapping Teflon tape around it as you do so.

What You Need to Know About Backflow Testing

Backflow Testing

Backflow testing is a crucial process that keeps dirty water from contaminating clean drinking water. It’s also a requirement for many homeowners and is generally done by a licensed plumber.Backflow Testing

Backflow tests involve closing and opening several valves while checking a few pressure gauges. Fortunately, there are tools to streamline this process. Consult Plumber The Woodlands for professional expertise.

Backflow prevention devices are used to prevent contamination of potable water supplies. This means that they prevent any chemicals, toxins, or debris from flowing back down a water supply line into homes, businesses, or city water mains. If you’ve ever noticed discolored or murky water in your sink or shower, this could indicate that your backflow preventer isn’t working properly.

There are many different types of backflow preventers, and the type you’ll need will depend on the degree of risk involved. A low-hazard cross-connection may create a nuisance or be aesthetically objectionable but wouldn’t pose a health hazard, while a high-hazard cross-connection could introduce organisms that cause illness or death into the public water system.

When you purchase a backflow device, the manufacturer will include a label that indicates what kind of backflow it protects against. The most common kinds of backflow preventers include atmospheric vacuum breakers, double-check valves, and reduced pressure zone assemblies (RPZ). Atmospheric vacuum breaker devices use a spring-loaded check valve to seal off the backflow area when the water flow is in a downstream direction. They protect against both backsiphonage and backpressure, but don’t protect against reversal of the direction of flow caused by a change in pressure. Double-check valves use two independent check valves to prevent backflow of contaminated water. RPZ assemblies, which are more reliable than double-check valves, are designed to protect against both backsiphonage and pressure.

Regardless of the type of backflow prevention device you’ve chosen, it is important to have it tested annually by a licensed plumber like Hutchinson. This will ensure that the device is functioning correctly and that your drinking water is safe to drink.

If you’re concerned about the quality of your home’s water, call us today to schedule a backflow test. We’ll help you keep your water clean and healthy!


Test cocks are used to attach a backflow test gauge to the backflow assembly during testing. They are available in brass and plastic and can be purchased separately or as part of a complete test kit. Our test cocks are lead free and meet SDWA requirements. They are handleless and use a wrench or screwdriver to open and close. They have a full port ball valve and are designed to be used with Deringer or Magnum backflow assemblies. We also carry a special test cock wrench that fits these valves perfectly. Protect your test cocks by installing caps or plugs when you are not using them.

Pressure Gauges

Pressure gauges are the main instrument used to determine whether backflow is occurring or not. They’re usually a circular dial with a glass or tempered window to allow you to view the measurement. The size of the dial is based on where it’s going to be placed, how frequently you need to read it, and how accurate it needs to be. Dials can range from 1.5 inches to 16 inches, and there are a variety of connection options, too. Most commonly, they connect to the backflow prevention device with NPT (national pipe thread) or G (general purpose) connections.

The main reason backflow testing is required is to protect the quality of drinking water in your area. If the H2O in your system flows backward, it could reach the sewer line and collect fecal matter, pesticides, and other pollutants that are dangerous to humans. Backflow prevention devices prevent this from happening by ensuring that water flows into your property in one direction.

But even if you have backflow prevention devices, there are still reasons to get your backflow tested. Backflow can occur when a pressure change affects the main supply line and allows water to trickle in the opposite direction. This can happen due to fire hydrants, water main breaks, system maintenance, or other events. If it does, it can contaminate the public water supply with impurities that can be harmful to people’s health, including dysentery, typhoid, and Salmonella.

In addition to keeping water clean, backflow tests also help prevent damage to buildings and other structures. When H2O travels backward, it can suck dirt, fertilizers, pesticides, and other pollutants into plumbing systems, which can lead to corrosion. This can cause leaks and other serious problems for your home or business.

A certified backflow tester will isolate the backflow preventer valve during a test to ensure that water isn’t flowing backward while he or she performs the test. They will also use specialized equipment like gauge assemblies and test kits to measure water pressure, check for contaminants, and assess the functionality of backflow prevention devices.

Test Procedures

Backflow tests might seem like a small part of your to-do list, but failing to get them done will only lead to problems down the line. The most obvious problem is that contaminated water could come back into your home’s plumbing. That’s a pretty unpleasant scenario for anyone, but it could also cause damage to your property.

Back flow testing is designed to make sure your backflow preventers are doing their job, protecting you and the public water supply from contamination. That’s because backflow can contaminate the main water supply with things like fertilizers, pesticides, human waste, and harmful chemicals that might find their way into your property’s plumbing and irrigation systems.

A backflow test makes sure your backflow prevention device is working properly by letting a certified tester take a look at the pressure of the system and its gauges. They’ll start by shutting off your water service, then open and close valves on the backflow prevention device. While they’re doing that, they’ll take a look at the pressure and record the results.

The test procedures vary depending on the type of backflow preventer. For example, a backflow test for double check backflow preventers needs to be performed differently than an air gap test. Testers will use a combination of valves, pressure gauges, and test cocks to test each aspect of your device. They’ll also test for signs of backflow, including changes in the gauges and a lack of an air gap between potable and non-potable water.

This can be a pretty complicated procedure, which is why it’s best to hire a professional plumber to handle it for you. A qualified Kiddco plumber will be able to ensure your backflow preventer is tested correctly and that the results are submitted directly to your local water utility company. They’ll also be able to handle the process of temporarily disconnecting your water service when necessary. This is a vital step in the test, and you shouldn’t try to skip it or you could face fines and potential water shortages down the line.